PRECAUTION ON POULTRY BUSINESS

PRECAUTION ON POULTRY BUSINESS
2 WEEKS OLD CHICKEN

Water
Chicks require access to clean water at all times. Upon arrival, it's
helpful to quickly, gently dip each chick's beak into the water to
encourage them to drink. If chicks had a rough trip and look wilted,
a vitamin/electrolyte solution can give them a boost. A little sugar
added to the water will suffice in a pinch, but it's much better to use
the vitamins & electrolytes.
Chicks learn to use poultry nipple waterers naturally from day one.
To avoid the risk of drowning, it's best to use a traditional waterer

or poultry nipple waterer versus a shallow dish or bowl. Elevating
the waterer will help keep shavings out of it but it must be changed
regularly, particularly if they have pooped in it- and they
will ! Coccidiosis, which is spread in droppings, breeds quickly in
wet, warm conditions and can very quickly kill baby chicks. Use of a
poultry nipple waterer eliminates all concerns about dirty water. I
use a variety of poultry nipple watering systems including the
Brooder Bottle Cap , the BriteTap chicken waterer and the EZ Miser.
Poultry nipple waterers deliver clean water to chicks consistently,
which makes them a healthier choice than traditional chick
waterers.

Feed
Chicks should have access to starter feed at all times, which comes in
medicated and unmedicated varieties. Starter feed is nutritionally
complete and specially prepared to be easily digested by chicks
without grit . Chicks do not require access to grit if their diet consists
solely of starter feed , but if they are given treats , grit is necessary to
aid in digestion.
Medicated starter feed contains amprolium , which protects chicks
from the progression of coccidiosis, a common and deadly intestinal
disease that is spread in fecal matter. Chicks that have received the
coccidiosis vaccine should not be fed medicated starter, as the
amprolium will render the vaccine useless and the chicks vulnerable
to the disease. When purchasing 'vaccinated' chicks, it's important
to know which vaccines they received.
I no longer give my baby chicks medicated feed after having learned
that it is unnecessary when chicks are being kept in clean, dry
conditions with adequate space per bird. When conditions become
overcrowded, filthy, wet and warm from traditional heat lamps,
coccidiosis can thrive. These types of unhealthy conditions are
significantly less likely to occur with pet chickens than they are with
commercial poultry operations, for example. Chickens build up a
natural immunity to the organisms that cause coccidiosis with or
without medicated starter. Allowing chicks to build up an immunity
in clean, dry conditions will serve them well when they are ready to
head out to the big kid coop.
Brooder clamp lights should have their wing nuts tightened
frequently.

Heat
A heat lamp with a red, 250 watt bulb is inexpensive and the most
commonly used heat source. It is also the most dangerous. Red is
preferred to white as red light is less harsh than white, allowing
chicks to rest better and is thought to reduce picking .
If using a heat lamp, the brooder should be be kept between 90-95°
F for the first week of the chicks' lives. A thermometer located
approximately 2-4 inches from the brooder floor will indicate
whether the lamp needs to be raised or lowered to achieve the target
temperature. Each week after the first, the temperature should be
reduced by five degrees. That's what I call "The Formula.*" I do not
subscribe strictly to The Formula except in the first week.

The Formula
Week 1= 90-95°
Week 2= 85-90°
Week 3= 80-85°
Week 3= 75-80°
Week 4= 70-75° etc

The Formula is a general guideline , the behavior of chicks is a
much better indicator of their true comfort level. Happy chicks
are quiet chicks. Content chicks will be dispersed throughout the
brooder, happily going about their business. When they are too
warm, they may pant and stay far away from the light. When they
huddle together or cheep noisily like the one in this video , they are
not warm enough. Simply adjust the lamp in either case. Or, better
yet, use a safer heat source that will allow them to regulate their
own temperature with no risk of ever overheating.
Cold, unhappy chicks upon arrival home from the feed store.
I cannot stress enough that the priority in keeping chicks warm
should be safety . Heat lamp parts can loosen, chicks can fly and
knock into them, lamps can fall, get knocked over and swing into
flammable objects; they can also shatter from a single drop of water.
If using a heat lamp, secure it in several different ways, anticipating
the failure of any one and keep it clear of anything flammable.
This barn fire was the result of a heat lamp that fell.
Had someone not discovered it in time, baby chicks, goats and ducks
would have perished.
HEAT LAMP ALTERNATIVES
There are much safer alternatives to heat lamps and I highly
encourage chicken-keepers to consider them. I have written about
the potential hazards of heat lamps in my blog post here as well as
explored an alternative heat source, the EcoGlo Brooder . I own two
EcoGlow brooders and will never again brood chicks with a heat
lamp. The EcoGlow is infinitely safer and more energy efficient
than a heat lamp and performs more like a mother hen. The chicks
spend remarkably little time underneath the EcoGlow after the first
few days, which indicates to me that we routinely overheat our
chicks with heat lamps, the warmth of which they cannot fully
escape.  The EcoGlow must be used in a space with an ambient
temperature of 60°F.

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR AND GUARD AGAINST
This day old chick hatched with spraddle leg, also known as splayed
leg.
Two of the five most common conditions to watch for in baby chicks
are spraddle leg and pasty butt. The other three can be found here .
Spraddle leg
Also known as splayed leg, is a deformity of the legs, characterized
by feet pointing to the side, instead of forward, making walking
difficult, if not impossible. The most common cause is slippery
brooder flooring. The deformity can be permanent if unaddressed
and is easily fixed, I discuss how to fix spraddle leg here .
Normal looking vents like these will not have poop caked on them.
The belly button area beneath vent may have residual umbilical cord
attached & should not be pulled or removed.

More info on Adedeji Farms:
Also known as pasted vent  is a condition where loose droppings
stick to the down surrounding a chick's vent, building up to form a
blockage that can be fatal unless removed. Pasty butt can be caused
by stress from shipping, being overheated, too cold or
from something they have eaten. All chicks should be checked for
pasty butt upon arrival. If droppings are caked onto the vent area,
they can be loosened with a dip in warm water or a damp washcloth
or paper towel and gently removed, being careful not to pull as
the skin can tear. After cleaning and drying the vent area, the
application of petroleum jelly or triple antibiotic ointment
can prevent the droppings from sticking to the down.
If several chicks develop pasty butt after a few days in the brooder,
it may be too hot and the temperature should be adjusted. According
to The Chicken Health Handbook, to remedy pasty butt, feed
scrambled eggs with some of their starter feed and if it clears things
up, switch brands of feed after that. Always provide grit to baby
chicks when supplementing their diet with any food other than
starter ration. Grit can be sand, a clump of weeds with the root ball/
dirt attached or grit that is sold in the feed store near the poultry
feed bags and online.